🇬🇹 Guatemala in 14 Days: The Complete Circuit

Day 1: Guatemala City, the capital almost nobody visits

Almost every traveller arriving in Guatemala passes through the capital only to rush off to Antigua or Flores the same day. We suggest staying one night and giving it an afternoon: Guatemala City has a historic centre, known as Zona 1, that's well worth getting to know before losing yourself in the rest of the country.

Zona 1: the historic centre

The heart of Zona 1 is the Plaza de la Constitución, also known as Parque Central, the largest square in the country. It's flanked to the north by the National Palace of Culture, an imposing green building built between 1939 and 1943 that today functions as a museum housing works by the country's leading 20th-century artists. To the east of the square stands the Metropolitan Cathedral, blending colonial and European elements and having survived numerous earthquakes over the centuries. Entry to both is free.

After the square, head to the Central Market, right behind the Cathedral: a great spot to try Guatemalan street food and pick up your first textiles of the trip, away from the more touristy atmosphere of Chichicastenango. In the evening, if you fancy something more cosmopolitan, Zona 10 (Zona Viva) concentrates the capital's most elegant restaurants and bars, a very different atmosphere from Zona 1.

Day 2: Heading north, landing in Petén

In the morning, catch your domestic flight to Flores (Mundo Maya Airport). It's a barely 40-minute hop that saves you a 10-hour overnight bus: after spending the night in the capital, it's worth every cent.

The moment you land, head to Flores Island, a colonial village built on a small island in Lake Petén Itzá, connected to the mainland by a causeway. To get there from the airport you have two options: tuk-tuk (cheaper, ideal if you're travelling light) or taxi (more comfortable if you're loaded with luggage).

Spend the afternoon wandering the island without rushing: its cobbled streets, colourful houses and the lake surrounding it all make it the perfect place to recover from the journey. As night falls, have dinner at any of the spots facing the water; the island's food scene, though small, is surprisingly good.

Day 3: Lake Petén Itzá and arrival in Tikal

Dedicate the morning to Lake Petén Itzá. From the San Miguel jetty, catch a boat to cross to the other side of the lake and walk up (about 20 minutes) to the Rey Canek Viewpoint, with panoramic views of Flores Island. Afterwards, cool off at Chechenal Beach, a paid beach with a lovely pier for a picnic and a swim in turquoise water.

After lunch on the island, it's time to leave civilisation behind: head for Tikal National Park, the heart of the Maya world. To get the full experience, stay inside the park itself: only three hotels offer that option, and sleeping surrounded by jungle, with barely any signal and howler monkeys as your alarm clock, is a wild experience you won't forget.

That same afternoon, go into the park for sunset from one of the temples (usually Temple IV). Keep in mind that, to move around the park at night (sunrise or sunset), you're required to go with a guide: there's plenty of wildlife, from spiders and snakes to, though rarely, the chance of crossing paths with a jaguar.

Day 4: Tikal's Grand Plaza and heading to the Caribbean

Spend the morning exploring Tikal at your own pace and in daylight. If yesterday's sunset was magical, seeing the full park by day, walking among pyramids taller than the surrounding jungle trees, is simply overwhelming.

Heading to the Guatemalan Caribbean

At midday, grab your things and head for Río Dulce, in the department of Izabal. The shuttle takes about 4 hours on the road, leaving behind the Petén jungle to gradually settle into the tropical, Caribbean landscape of the country's east.

Day 5: Livingston, Guatemala's Garífuna Caribbean

Today is one of the most different days of the whole trip. Livingston is a village accessible only by boat, located right where the Río Dulce meets the Caribbean Sea. Culturally it doesn't resemble anything else you'll have seen in Guatemala: here Garífuna, Maya Q'eqchi', ladino and Afro-Caribbean cultures all coexist.

The Río Dulce canyon by boat

Boats leave the Río Dulce jetty towards Livingston mid-morning and early afternoon, and the journey itself is an excursion in its own right: you sail through a spectacular canyon with rock walls covered in jungle, with regular stops at hot springs right by the river and among mangroves.

Along the way, the boat usually also stops at the Castillo de San Felipe de Lara, a 17th-century Spanish fortress built to defend the mouth of the river against attacks from English and Dutch pirates.

Livingston: Garífuna culture

Take a walk around the village, try tapado (the local signature stew, made with seafood, fish, coconut milk and plantain) at one of the restaurants by the jetty, and if you're still up for freshwater after so much Caribbean, you can take a boat to the Siete Altares, a series of freshwater pools surrounded by jungle.

Head back to Río Dulce on the last afternoon boat to spend the night there, since the next day brings the transfer to Alta Verapaz.

Day 6: Heading to Alta Verapaz, the dirt road

Today is, no way around it, the toughest travel day of the whole route. The stretch between Río Dulce and Lanquín is 138 km, but count on 5-6 real hours by shuttle: the final stretch is unpaved road, so arm yourself with patience (and travel sickness pills, if you're prone to it).

You'll reach Lanquín, a small, quiet village that's the gateway to Semuc Champey, in the mid-afternoon. Most accommodation in the area is spread between the village itself and the final stretch of track towards Semuc Champey; many offer free pickup from the shuttle drop-off point.

Spend the afternoon recovering from the journey: take a shower, have something simple for dinner at your accommodation, and save your energy for tomorrow's big day.

Day 7: Semuc Champey, the pools that hide in the rock

Today it's time for Alta Verapaz's great star: Semuc Champey, a natural monument formed by a limestone bridge around 300 metres long, on top of which sit a series of terraced turquoise pools, surrounded by tropical jungle.

The final stretch from Lanquín to the Semuc Champey entrance (about 10 km) is steep, unpaved track; most accommodations and tours arrange transport to the entrance. Once inside, climb up to the viewpoint first: from up there you get the site's most iconic view, with the terraced pools peeking through the jungle's greenery. Then head down to the pools for a relaxed swim, jumping from one to the next over the small connecting waterfalls.

Spend the rest of the afternoon relaxing in Lanquín; there isn't much else to do in the village besides strolling and enjoying the calm atmosphere after two intense days of travel and adventure.

If you'd rather book the transfer and entrance to Semuc Champey as an organised excursion from Antigua or Cobán, here are some well-rated options:

Day 8: The longest day, heading to the highlands

Time for the longest transfer of the whole route: from Lanquín to Antigua. There are direct shuttles covering the journey in around 9 hours, with a couple of stops along the way to eat and stretch your legs. It's a day entirely dedicated to travel, so don't plan anything else for the day.

You'll reach Antigua Guatemala already at night. After so many hours on the road, the best plan is to have something simple for dinner near your accommodation and rest well: the next day kicks off the trip's more colonial and volcanic chapter.

Day 9: Antigua Guatemala, cobbled streets and volcanoes

With renewed energy after resting, start the day with a Free Tour around Antigua to get your bearings: it's the best way to grasp the city's colonial history in one go before exploring it further on your own.

After the tour, explore on your own: La Merced Church, the Capuchinas Convent and, of course, the obligatory photo at the Santa Catalina Arch. Climb up to Cerro de la Cruz for the most iconic view of the city: the colonial grid layout under the imposing shadow of the Agua Volcano.

For lunch, try a local classic: wood-fired chicken with sides at any of the popular eateries downtown (usually cash only). Close the day with a walk through the Municipal Market, where you'll find the 'real Antigua', bustling and less polished than the touristy centre.

Day 10: Touching the sky on Acatenango Volcano

Early in the morning, the company you booked your trek with will pick you up. They usually take you to their base first for breakfast and to hand you the packed lunch you'll carry in your own backpack during the climb.

6 Hours of Climbing

The ascent is tough but rewarding. You start at 2,300m and climb up to base camp at 3,700m. It's about 6 hours of walking, with strategic stops to rest and eat.

💡 Tip: although the package usually includes 1.5L of water, bring more of your own plus extra snacks. Your body burns through a lot of energy climbing and you'll need it.

Arrival at Base Camp

On arrival, drop your backpack and you'll usually be offered several options for the afternoon: staying at camp resting and watching the volcano from the tent, doing the extra hike (tough and technical) to the active Fuego Volcano's slope, or climbing the nearby viewpoint, an easy 20-minute climb from camp with spectacular views of the Fuego eruptions at sunset.

Clouds, Rum and So Much Cold

After sunset, the guides usually light a bonfire to roast marshmallows and offer hot chocolate or a shot of rum or whisky to warm up. And you'll need it.

Day 11: Sunrise at the summit and descending to Lake Atitlán

The Final Challenge: The Summit at 4:00 AM

With the cold still deep in your bones, the guides wake up the group in the early hours. You have two options: stay in your sleeping bag or try to summit Acatenango (3,976m) to watch the sunrise. It's 'only' 300m of elevation gain, but on volcanic sand at that altitude, it hurts like hell. If you don't dare, the views from camp at sunrise are already mind-blowing on their own.

The Knee-Breaking Descent

After a hot breakfast to warm up, the descent begins: about 3 hours down to the base. On arrival, many companies offer to book the direct transfer to Panajachel, the gateway to Lake Atitlán, right there. The road is winding, but the first views of the lake make up for all the accumulated tiredness.

Take the afternoon slow: a calm stroll along Panajachel's main street (Santander), full of crafts, is more than enough after two such physically demanding days. Your body will be begging for a break, and it deserves one.

Day 12: Village-hopping around Lake Atitlán

From Panajachel, catch a public boat to San Pedro La Laguna, your base for the next two days. Drop your bags at your accommodation and head down to the jetty to negotiate a boat route around the neighbouring villages: San Marcos and San Juan, with a return to San Pedro, usually costs around 45 quetzales per person in total.

San Marcos is the lake's most mystical, hippie village. If you've still got legs left after Acatenango, you can visit the Cerro Tzankujil Reserve (20Q), with nice trails and a 12-metre diving platform straight into the lake. If you'd rather take it easy, any café with lake views and a cold Gallo beer is just as good a plan.

San Juan is the lake's most colourful and artistic village. Walk along the famous umbrella street and the hat street, with gorgeous murals on every corner. If you've got the energy, there's a viewpoint (Kaqasiiwaan) with good views, though after Acatenango it's completely understandable to let that one slide.

Back in San Pedro, more backpacker and party-oriented than the other two villages, close out the day with a calm dinner; it's your second-to-last night at the lake.

Day 13: Colour and chaos at Chichicastenango Market

For your last full day, book an excursion (transport only) to visit the famous Chichicastenango Market. It's held only on Thursdays and Sundays, so it's worth aligning your dates carefully when planning the trip. The journey from San Pedro takes about 2h 30min along winding mountain roads.

Chichicastenango is a maze of stalls selling wooden masks, colourful textiles and incense. It's the best time to buy your last souvenirs of the trip (always haggle respectfully). Don't miss the village's distinctive cemetery either, with brightly coloured tombs stepped up the hillside.

Back in San Pedro, enjoy one last, calm afternoon: a Guatemalan sweet at a local bakery and one final stroll around the village before packing for the trip home.

Day 14: The challenge of reaching the airport

All good things come to an end. Book a direct transfer from San Pedro to La Aurora Airport, in the capital, and leave with plenty of margin: the approach into Guatemala City is a notorious traffic bottleneck, and a journey of barely 170 km can easily take 4 hours.

With the capital, the jungle, the Garífuna Caribbean, the turquoise pools and the volcanoes already tucked away as memories, it's time to say goodbye to a country that demands a lot on the road, but pays it back many times over in landscapes and experiences. Thank you, Guatemala!