Ceuta has been Phoenician, Carthaginian, Roman, Byzantine, Portuguese and Spanish. Its strategic position, right where the Mediterranean meets the Atlantic, made it a coveted prize for every empire that ever controlled the Strait of Gibraltar throughout history.
Introduction: From Morocco to Spain Without Boarding a Plane
After five days touring northern Morocco, we closed out the trip with two days of downtime in Ceuta. Crossing the land border and finding yourself back in Spain, without ever boarding a plane, is one of those strange, fascinating sensations you only understand by travelling through this part of the Strait.
We arrived thanks to the hospitality of one of our group, who worked in the city. If you're not so lucky, don't worry: Ceuta is perfectly manageable independently, and two days is enough to make the most of it, combining history, beach time and good food.
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🏰 A city with 3,000 years of history
🗺️ Excursion Roadmap
Two days of disconnecting on the border between two continents, ideal for closing out any route through northern Morocco.
Day 1: Boat trip and Benzú
- One-hour boat trip along the coast
- Vermouth at the Central Food Market
- Lunch on Monte Hacho
- Excursion to Benzú and the border
- Night at the Ceuta Feria
Day 2: Maritime Park and farewell
- A relaxed day at the Mediterranean Maritime Park
- Saltwater pools
- Last night at the Feria
- Return flight from Tetouan
Map of Locations in Ceuta
Icon Legend
- 📸 Point of interest
- ⭐️ Favourite
- 🌲 Park
- 🍴 Restaurants
- 🚤 Pier
- 🏰 Viewpoints and forts
Day-by-Day Itinerary
- Day 1: Boat trip, Monte Hacho and Benzú
- Day 2: Maritime Park and farewell
🚤 Day 1 – Boat trip, Monte Hacho and Benzú
📍 Day 1 Route
1
One-hour boat trip along the coast
2
Vermouth at the Central Food Market
3
Lunch at Restaurante Oasis (Monte Hacho)
4
Excursion to Benzú and border viewpoints
5
Night at the Ceuta Feria
🚤 Boat trip
After a night's rest, we started the day with a different plan: a one-hour boat trip around Ceuta. During the trip, alongside the sea breeze and coastal views, we heard the history of the city, from its importance as a strategic Mediterranean enclave to its cultural blend built up over centuries.
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🏴☠️ Who was «El Desnarigado»?
The boat is named after a famous Barbary pirate who, according to legend, used the Ceuta coast as a base for raiding ships in the Strait. His nickname came, as you might guess, from losing his nose in battle (or as a punishment, depending on who tells the story). He lived in a fortress on the southern coast, today's Castillo del Desnarigado, now a military museum well worth a visit.
🍷 Vermouth at the central market
Back on land, we walked through central Ceuta and stopped at the Central Food Market, where we had a vermouth surrounded by everyday Ceuta life. The market is a great spot to observe the fusion of Spanish tradition and Moroccan heritage in its products and atmosphere.
🍽️ Lunch on Monte Hacho
For lunch we climbed up to the famous Restaurante Oasis, on top of Monte Hacho. Its panoramic views over the whole city and the strait are simply spectacular.
The menu was a feast: we started with beetroot, carrot and aubergine salads, all with that characteristic local kick of spice. For mains, a memorable lamb tajine and a chicken pastela for three, huge and delicious (though it needs to be ordered in advance). To finish, the ever-present mint tea, a drink that had already become an essential part of our meals and conversations.
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⚓ Monte Hacho and the Pillars of Hercules
Monte Hacho, at 204 metres, is the other great candidate (alongside Morocco's Jebel Musa) for one of the mythological Pillars of Hercules. Its summit still holds the Hacho Fortress, of Byzantine origin and later expanded by the Portuguese and the Spanish over the centuries, one of the oldest military compounds still in use in Europe.
🏞️ Excursion to Benzú
With full stomachs, we headed to the village of Benzú, right on the border with Morocco. From here you can see the border fence, although only Moroccan children who study in Benzú are allowed to cross at this point. The rest of the population must use the Castillejos crossing, in the Príncipe neighbourhood area.
Benzú also offers a privileged view of Mount Jebel Musa, in Morocco, known as one of the 'Pillars of Hercules'.
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📜 The legend of Hercules
According to mythology, Hercules split Europe from Africa by opening the Strait of Gibraltar. One of his famous pillars would be the Rock of Gibraltar, and the other, Mount Jebel Musa, which from Ceuta looms majestically over the sea. Romantic tradition holds that the mountain's silhouette represents a sleeping woman, known as "The Dead Woman".
🌄 Viewpoints and vistas
From Benzú we moved on to the Isabel II Viewpoint, where the city of Ceuta forms its characteristic figure-eight shape surrounded by sea. We also passed the Border Viewpoint, from where you can see the famous fence that so often appears in the news.
⚠️ The Príncipe neighbourhood
On the way back, we skirted the well-known Príncipe neighbourhood, one of Ceuta's more controversial areas. Popularly known for its complex social and security situation, it even inspired the Spanish TV series "El Príncipe", set in this neighbourhood. Although many prefer to avoid it, it's part of contemporary Ceuta's identity.
🎡 The Ceuta Feria
After a short rest back home, it was time to dive into the Ceuta Feria. Time to get dressed up and head out to enjoy the fair stalls, the music, the lights and the festive atmosphere that fills the city during these dates. A perfect way to close the day with friends, laughter and tradition 🎶🍻.
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💡 If you're not travelling during the Feria dates
The Ceuta Feria is usually held in late July. If your trip falls on other dates, swap this evening for a calm stroll along the Paseo de las Palmeras or a drink on one of the terraces downtown, equally pleasant.
☀️ Day 2 – Maritime Park and farewell
📍 Day 2 Route
1
A relaxed day at the Mediterranean Maritime Park
2
Swim in the saltwater pools
3
Last night at the Feria
4
Return flight from Tetouan
🏝️ Mediterranean Maritime Park
We dedicated the last day to relaxing after such an intense week. There was no better plan than spending the day at the Mediterranean Maritime Park. Padded sun loungers awaited us for a day of sunbathing in a setting that feels like a genuine oasis, with tall palm trees, lush vegetation and a great atmosphere.
The complex has two enormous pools with an interesting quirk: they're refilled with seawater every 2-3 days, making them saltwater pools. The one downside is that the water can be rather chilly! Still, between dips, nothing beats cooling off with a mojito by the pool 🍹.
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🎨 A César Manrique signature
The Mediterranean Maritime Park was designed by the Canarian artist César Manrique, the same creator behind Lanzarote's famous gardens (Jameos del Agua, Mirador del Río). His signature style shows through in the fusion of architecture, tropical vegetation and volcanic sculptures scattered across the whole site, a look that's very unusual to find on the Spanish Mediterranean coast.
🎡 Last night at the Feria
To close out the trip in style, the evening held no big surprises: we went back to enjoy the festive atmosphere of the Ceuta Feria. Amid music, lights, laughter and fair stalls, it was our way of saying goodbye to this unique Moroccan-Ceuta experience.
🛫 An unexpected farewell
The next day, we were due to fly back from Tetouan around 2 pm, but the trip had one last anecdote in store. Our flight was delayed because, right in the middle of boarding, a couple of private jets landed carrying the three sisters of King Mohammed VI, who take turns playing the role of First Lady. A curious, very "Moroccan" way to say goodbye to this adventure.
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💡 Traveller tip
At Moroccan airports it's mandatory to bring your printed boarding pass to check in, since it's done manually at the check-in counter. Don't forget to arrive with plenty of time to spare!
If you'd rather book the boat trip or another Ceuta activity in advance, here are some options:
💰 Excursion Expense Summary (2 Days in Ceuta)
This was the approximate cost per person for the two days in Ceuta:
🎟️ Tours and activities
€73- Boat trip: €13
- Maritime Park: €10
- Ceuta Feria (two nights): €50
🍴 Food
€85- Restaurants in Ceuta: €85
Total Spend in Ceuta Per Person
€180
Percentage breakdown of the €180 spent on the Ceuta excursion:
Recommended Activities in Ceuta
Here are some of the best-rated activities to round off your Ceuta excursion:
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